I tried connecting a piece of the wire directly to 120 VAC house current. The high frequency AC is what makes the wire glow.
It steps up the 12 volt DC and changes it to a high frequency AC. Notice the little black box? This is the driver. The picture below is the back of the marquee. This next pic is with the plexi glass removed. The protective plastic is still on the plexi, it will look a lot better after I peel that off. The first pic has the plexi glass laid on top of the el wire. I got the EL Wire laid into the groove on the marquee. I repeated the process for the other player's joystick. This will allow the joystick handle to protrude through the control panel and plexi glass enough to operate correctly. This gives me a line which I will use as a guide to route 1/4" out of the control panel. I then marked around the mounting flange of the joystick. I then took the body of the joystick and temporarily bolted it to the bottom of the control panel. This one shows the handle pulled apart from the body. This allows the handle to pull out of the body. I remove this with a pair of needle nose pliers. There is a clip at the bottom of the handle shaft. Here is a kinda blurred picture of the joystick. I will post more pics later.Īlso got a little work done on the joystick mounting. I have since mounted another bulb on the right side. Here is a picture, but the marquee looks better in real life. I decided to use 12 volt bulbs, like the ones in a coin door. The Led casts a bright dot of light in the center of the picture. I tried a super bright jumbo led behind the character picture. Got the T-Molding and the keywiz encoder today.
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